Enigma X Björn Frantzén - Good, not Great.

Scallop in it's own shell served with dried roe, fir-tree, finger lime and dashi

Scallop in it's own shell served with dried roe, fir-tree, finger lime and dashi

IN A NUTSHELL

This is Enigma's second culinary journey, this time with 2 Michelin Stars Swedish chef Bjorn Frantzen, owner of restaurant Frantzen, #31 in the world. The experience was good overall, but not great nor memorable. Maybe I would have felt differently had I gone to Stockholm and experienced Frantzen's food first hand, from his kitchen, in his restaurant. Maybe that experience will always be greater than that you experience in Dubai while chefs come here temporarily and serve you in the same restaurant a previous Michelin star chef had served you in a month before. Maybe the Enigma model is a broken model and is affecting my unimpressed reviews of the world's 50 best restaurants. 

THE MOOD

The restaurant was empty, it was just us and another table, which definitely has an impact on the overall experience. The decor was left unchanged from the last time we were at Enigma for Quique Dacosta, making the experience far less personalized. 

THE FOOD

We opted for the full story menu, which consisted of 12 courses. Some were okay, others were good and only a few were great. My favorites were the "white moss sushi with deer , frozen bird's liver" , the "onion soup" and the "sticky beetroot served with blackberries, frozen lingonberries, 100-year old vinegar & liquorice mousse"

Apple & Lingonberry macaron with foie gras and chervil

Apple & Lingonberry macaron with foie gras and chervil

White moss sushi with deer, frozen bird's liver, burnt hay and chanterelles

White moss sushi with deer, frozen bird's liver, burnt hay and chanterelles

Swedish knackebrod served with homemade butter 

Swedish knackebrod served with homemade butter 

Oyster with granita of sea buckthorn, juniper cream and sprouted walnut 

Oyster with granita of sea buckthorn, juniper cream and sprouted walnut 

Lamb served with cabbage, roasted cauliflower bouillon and truffles

Lamb served with cabbage, roasted cauliflower bouillon and truffles

Slow baked cod served with Swedish vendace from roe from Kalix, beurre blanc flavored with preserved anchovy juice and young onions

Slow baked cod served with Swedish vendace from roe from Kalix, beurre blanc flavored with preserved anchovy juice and young onions

surprise onion and mushroom soup 

surprise onion and mushroom soup 

Sticky beetroot served with blackberries, frozen lingonberries, 100 year old vinegar, liquorice mousse

Sticky beetroot served with blackberries, frozen lingonberries, 100 year old vinegar, liquorice mousse

Smoked ice cream, roasted nuts, tar syrup and salted fudge with cloves

Smoked ice cream, roasted nuts, tar syrup and salted fudge with cloves

THE DAMAGE

AED 750 for the full story menu (excl alcohol) 


Enigma
Palazzo Versace Dubai
 +971 4 556 8888